California 1400 hanging throttle

[Ste]

Almost there.

Pipes (Mistral), open airbox (by Dremel), and Todd’s kit, have really made a difference. I'm still hoping to pull a map for another tweak, but it’s remarkable how much better the bike is with the new map and a little help from Todd. My only regret is I didn’t do it sooner.

… two issues are preventing me from reaching Guzzi nirvana. Hoping the collective wisdom of this site can help:

1. That dang hot-motor hanging throttle issue. It’s not just the high idle, but also the lack of engine braking on deceleration that bugs me. I’m very skeptical that the clutch switch is involved. I'm keeping the faith in the forum alive. Anyone have any luck resolving this?

2. The oil fan therma switch. The oil cooler fan very rarely kicks on anymore. I’m often running stop-and-go in town in 90+ degrees and the bike gets stinking hot even with the richer AFR. The oil has to be 200+ degrees. I suspect the switch might be sticking open. (Bypassing it creates a working fan circuit.) Has anyone had a similar problem? Has anyone replaced the switch? I’m asking before I drop 60 bucks on a new one and deal with the pita installation.

 

[sir fred]

Got my clutch switch replaced today, under warranty!
The bike would idle fast in gear but return to normal idle when in neutral and had a "service " alarm.

I kept riding the bike and would just pop it into neutral when decelling

I called the dealer and described the problem and related all the info I gathered from here.
He ordered the part as a warranty repair and called me that it was in whilst I was at Bike Week in NH.

THANKS ALL!..you expedited my repair!

 

[roadventure]

Got my clutch switch replaced today, under warranty!
The bike would idle fast in gear but return to normal idle when in neutral and had a "service " alarm.

I kept riding the bike and would just pop it into neutral when decelling

I called the dealer and described the problem and related all the info I gathered from here.
He ordered the part as a warranty repair and called me that it was in whilst I was at Bike Week in NH.

THANKS ALL!..you expedited my repair!

I am a bit unclear. Are you telling us that replacing your clutch switch solved the problems?

 

[sir fred]

I am a bit unclear. Are you telling us that replacing your clutch switch solved the problems?

yes

 

[rslezak]

I too have the throttle issue and it's most certainly not heat related as the problem first manifested itself at around 50 degrees. In fact I had heavy gloves on that were a bit wet. I thought I somehow did not release the throttle correctly. Once the bike was shut off and restarted everything worked fine for the rest of the trip. After reading this post I now realize that it was something other than a heavy glove hand. I'll mention it to the dealer at the next service interval and see if Mandelo has come up with a fix.

 

[sir fred]

The switch is a spring loaded button under the clutch lever.
The mechanic showed me the switch and it acted as if no spring was in it.

When riding and coming to a stop, the bike would idle at about 1500 rpm with the clutch in and bike in gear but would return to normal idle when put in neutral.
The bike would only start in neutral and the cruise control wasn't working.
A "service" alert was on the dash menu.

The problem first showed up last September but was intermittent with no service alert.
This Spring, the switch finally totally faulted.

It is an easy repair but the Service alert must be cleared by the dealer.

 

[roadventure]

yes

Thanks for the answer. This something I have been suggesting as a possible cure for the high idle that some have experienced.

Todd, if you are reading this, do you know if it is possible for someone (with the right diagnostic tools) to identify just what the signal from the clutch switch is controlling in the on board computer?

 

[kiwi dave]

The switch is exactly that, a switch. If the clutch switch is faulty, you will not be able to start the motor when in any gear. That shouldn't take too long to diagnose.

 

[sir fred]

..unless it is an intermittent problem..as mine started out as...

 

[CC Rider]

Was this 'throttle hanging' or 'surging' ever resolved. I own a 2015 Cali Tour and since my service tech did the 1000km and updated the software my bike would do the same thing: when hot, or about 15 minutes into the ride, the bike would race to 3500-4000 when I engaged the clutch. This has my dealer stumped. They have informed Moto Guzzi US, and they have tried reinstalling the update, and they have replaced the throttle demand switch. The issue has not gone away, but is better. It still races, but a twist of the throttle kicks it back down to normal.
It was suggested that the last ECU update may have been to blame. The dealer is working hard to rectify it, but without similar issues, and problems duplicating the issue in the shop, it's like a needle in a hay stack.

 

[sir fred]

replace the clutch switch.

 

[Jimmy]

Hello to all...

Well, here's the update on the "hanging throttle" issue, now that I finally had the time to pass by the dealer.

Having met the head of mechanics at the dealership and explained to him the issue, he kept the bike at the workshop for 2 days.
And it seems that the valve clearance was causing this problem. Had a lot of clearance, and by the way, I did notice a strong knocking noise with the bike at idle... so this only confirms a necessity to adjust the valves.

Now that this was carried out, the bike is definitely more enjoyable to ride and the hanging throttle that was felt during engine breaking at around 2700-2800 rpm has DECREASED. I won't say that it completely went out. I can still feel it happening while downshifting and the engine breaking... but to a much lesser extent.

No ECU update was carried out. Only valve clearance adjustment.

God, I would have loved to have a bit more feel from the engine... This is what I was expecting from a 1400cc engine... But it looks like that's the best it can do.
I have to admit that the more I ride the bike and log more and more miles, the better the whole thing is going... But, would have loved to do without this jolt in engine breaking.

And the "VELOCE" mode of the ride by wire system seems to suit the bike the most...

There's a new issue to highlight to the dealership, and it's a fluctuating idle at the bike's initial cold start up. This only happens at the first engine start up and during the very first mile... the idle varies between 800 to 1500 rpm. After a very short while, things settle down and I don't see it happening again during the day. Needs some follow up...

Well..., a switch to a Fat Bob has gone through my mind... But, when the moment comes to be serious about the idea of changing, I don't seem to be 100% ready to let my Guzzi go away. There's definitely something very special with the Guzzi despite the little problems we're facing...

Will keep you posted.

Till then, thanking you for your help and wishing you all positive Guzzi engine vibrations!!!

Regards,
Jimmy.

 

[Loosy gussi]

Hi guys, thought I'd pass on my experiences on this & might save you some time & expense. But sorry, as yet no cure. My 3 year old 1400 touring (6.5k miles) suffers badly with the hanging throttle issue. The bike doesn't need to be particularly hot before behaving abnormally, once warm & running in cool ambient temperatures (50*f) the revs will hang. The symptoms: Decelerating on a closed throttle & with 100% engine braking above 3000 rpm once the revs drop below 3k, power (ie fuel) will come back in & the revs will either decrease very slowly, or just hang @3k until the throttle is blipped or the engine killed. The bike also hesitates while accelerating from low revs frequently.
Before anyone suggests Todds fuelling mods, I already have them & while the overall engine response is much improved they haven't helped this issue. This is not a problem with the fuel table.
All specs checkout as normal in Guzzdiag against the references in the manual & the throttle reset/learning have been done numerous times.
So far I've tried the following to attempt a cure: Replaced the clutch switch. Made no difference. I know some have reported success with this but to be honest I had my doubts. The switch only has two positions (in or out) & it's function can be checked in software. I replaced it anyway, to no avail.
Replaced the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. The above symptoms can replicate those of a failing pressure sensor but sadly it made no difference.
Removed & cleaned the throttle body, checked for air leaks & again no improvement.
I still think this is a manifold pressure issue rather than one of fueling or throttle synchronisation & still hope to find a resolution.
I love this bike, but this glitch makes riding it at anything other than cruising speeds a frustrating experience.
Jon

Hi, although this post is a few months old, I wanted to reply that my 1400 has the exact symptoms you describe. I had a great 120 mile ride through the mountains yesterday and everything works nicely, but the hanging throttle, right @ 3000 rpm. Is odd. It does seem funny that it is at that same 3000 rpm that the engine braking just falls off when decelerating to a feeling of running in neutral. When I'm coming down a mountain road on twisty roads, the motor holds me back then 3100-3000 rpm & it feels like I pulled the clutch in, & I'm finishing the turn in a coast, until I twist the throttle. it seems all my other bikes have consistent engine braking right down to idle speed. It is a bit unsettling to be "Jake Break-ing" , leaned over in the middle of a turn, then lose that deceleration as if pulling In a compression release.
The hanging throttle seems to occur after spirited or freeway driving or when good and warm. It happened a couple of times yesterday & one time I didn't blip the throttle & the motor just stayed there @ 3000. I gave it a twist & it idle down to normal. If anyone gets the fix please keep us posted also If there is a way to have engine braking to a lower rpm that would be nice too

 

[roadventure]

Hi, although this post is a few months old, I wanted to reply that my 1400 has the exact symptoms you describe. I had a great 120 mile ride through the mountains yesterday and everything works nicely, but the hanging throttle, right @ 3000 rpm. Is odd. It does seem funny that it is at that same 3000 rpm that the engine braking just falls off when decelerating to a feeling of running in neutral. When I'm coming down a mountain road on twisty roads, the motor holds me back then 3100-3000 rpm & it feels like I pulled the clutch in, & I'm finishing the turn in a coast, until I twist the throttle. it seems all my other bikes have consistent engine braking right down to idle speed. It is a bit unsettling to be "Jake Break-ing" , leaned over in the middle of a turn, then lose that deceleration as if pulling In a compression release.
The hanging throttle seems to occur after spirited or freeway driving or when good and warm. It happened a couple of times yesterday & one time I didn't blip the throttle & the motor just stayed there @ 3000. I gave it a twist & it idle down to normal. If anyone gets the fix please keep us posted also If there is a way to have engine braking to a lower rpm that would be nice too

Check your clutch switch. I know, "it can't be the clutch switch. That's crazy!"

Check your clutch switch. It is responsible for a lot more than letting the computer know that your clutch lever has moved.

 

[Loosy gussi]

Check your clutch switch. I know, "it can't be the clutch switch. That's crazy!"

Check your clutch switch. It is responsible for a lot more than letting the computer know that your clutch lever has moved.

Ok I'll try, from reading here I thought the clutch switch resolved a higher, fluctuating idle. Thanks for your response. Do you think it could also effect engine braking?

 

[roadventure]

Ok I'll try, from reading here I thought the clutch switch resolved a higher, fluctuating idle. Thanks for your response. Do you think it could also effect engine braking?

I don't know about that. But, I did find it very surprising that when I broke my clutch switch I began to get the high idle when I was at a stop. It was from this experience that I learned that the clutch switch seemed to be controlling more in the computer that one would think. The clutch switch is delicate and in my opinion not the best choice for the job from the point of view of durability.

But, it wouldn't hurt to have a dealer perform a functional test for the clutch switch. If it is found to be working as designed, then it can be eliminated as a cause. It is worth a chance....

 

[Loosy gussi]

Thanks for the info,.. I did some more reading in the shop manual, clutch, page 128 trouble-shooting. It appears there is a 3 wire harness. .I don't have diagnostic equipment but it looks like the problem could be 1. Clutch lever sensor, or 2. Cable harness. From what I see on the Web it looks like all one deal.. any hints on where I can buy? OR Just head over to dealer (little spring loaded switch seems to operate fine). Thanks, John

 

[roadventure]

Thanks for the info,.. I did some more reading in the shop manual, clutch, page 128 trouble-shooting. It appears there is a 3 wire harness. .I don't have diagnostic equipment but it looks like the problem could be 1. Clutch lever sensor, or 2. Cable harness. From what I see on the Web it looks like all one deal.. any hints on where I can buy? OR Just head over to dealer (little spring loaded switch seems to operate fine). Thanks, John

I bought my clutch switch from AF1 Racing. It was about $80.00 and it does have the harness attached.

 

[Loosy gussi]

Thanks roadventure, will give them a call, great help, & great site.

 

[roadventure]

Thanks roadventure, will give them a call, great help, & great site.

Come back to let everyone know if a new clutch switch helped your particular problem.