• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.

Charcoal Canister Removal - Detailed with Pictures

Thanks for the tutorial and the motivation. I got my 2009 buttoned back up after removing the can. The earlier model is different enough getting the plastic off, but it was clear what needed to be done. And the place where the can was left me enough room to finally mount my Stebel horn.
 
tkonsler said:
Thanks for the tutorial and the motivation. I got my 2009 buttoned back up after removing the can. The earlier model is different enough getting the plastic off, but it was clear what needed to be done. And the place where the can was left me enough room to finally mount my Stebel horn.
Click to expand...

Glad it was helpful. Thank you for your kind words.

Scott
 
Hi Scott,

Thanks for the write up. This is the only motorcycle forum I have seen where people are so awesome. Makes me want to get a Guzzi tattoo. I just pulled mine out and the bike runs smoother through the whole range. All I can figure is the constant feed pressure on the fuel system with the canister removed helps the system modulate a little better. With the canister connected there is a constant change in fuel tank pressure based on throttle position.

Thanks again & have a merry Christmas.

James
 
Hey Scott,

Thanks for the excellent procedure. I followed step-by-step and everything went like clockwork. I am thrilled with the improvement in starting, idle control and consistance throughout the throttle range now. I can't help but wonder if some of the "fueling problems" at least on the US bikes could be caused by adding the charcoal setup without modifying the UK fuel map. Whatever the reason, it's like riding a different bike now. Best time I've spent yet working on the bike and now I am much more familiar with it. Thanks again for taking time to publish this procedure. People may not realize how much time and effort it took you to do it but "Well Done"...
 
Sorry for the late replies but again, thank you all for the kind words. I have been away from the site for a few months but I believe that now I will be able to interact more fully.

With Spring coming, I hope to create several more step-by-step guides for the Stelvio NTX.

Lastly, a huge offering of gratitude goes out to Todd for providing this forum for us all!

All I can say is "Have you donated anything to the site lately?" We all use it so we should all support it!

We are fortunate to be able to share such good stuff with each other here and I am grateful to be a small part of it.
 
That is a very helpful write up. I did mine today and found it a bit easier to install the side covers before reinstalling the nose piece. The only thing I did differently was to splice the tank vent hose into the overflow hose rather than leaving the vent hose running forward across the engine and down the front. I did run a vacuum hose between the throttle bodies.

While it was nude, I replaced the cig lighter power outlet in the dash with a powerlet socket and fished the power cord for the gps up to the handlebars.
 
Re: Charcoal Canister Removal - 2009

On a 2009 the fuel attachment etc. is underneath the tank not on the back. Is this where the main vent attachment point is located. I have located the overflow vent which had come loose and was just hanging. The main vent attached to the tip over valve needs connecting and I can't find the attachment point. I have downloaded and reviewed shop manuals available on PDF , but they don't seem to mention the main vent. They do mention a tranny vent, whick I will check on too. FYI, I was able to remove the canister with just removing the instrument panel cutting all the lines off and working the canister out through the top/side. Then I just backed up all the hoses.

Still a very helpful write up.

Thanks
 
Great write up, I was curious as to connecting the two throttle bodies via the vacuum (m6) ports, what is the advantage of this compared to just blocking them off? I've removed the canister and SAS from my 950 KTM's but just block those throttle body ports off, hence the question.

Thanks
 
Yeah, don't connect the throttle bodies. If it helps even out the idle, then the throttle bodies need to be synced. Just put some vacuum caps on there and call it good.
 
I have mine individually capped off. However, I have seen others with a cross over tube. I would try capped off first. If the bike is setup correctly, I think you will be happy.
 
I recommend connecting the two with a part of the rubber line you remove. It does smooth the idle and makes for easy T/B balance in the future without worry of missing caps or re-installing the fittings.
 
Great write up, did this on my Norge tonight. Same components, different locations. Haven't gone for a ride but start and idle is marked improvement.
 
Bulldog9 said:
Great write up, did this on my Norge tonight. Same components, different locations. Haven't gone for a ride but start and idle is marked improvement.
Click to expand...

I'm very pleased you found it helpful. Thank you for your kind words. - Scott
 
Did this today...easy to follow directions. Thanks Scott for taking the time to do this and make life easy for the rest of us.
 
ArizonaPaul said:
Did this today...easy to follow directions. Thanks Scott for taking the time to do this and make life easy for the rest of us.
Click to expand...
I glad you found it helpful. Thanks for the kind words.
 
This was arguably the best tutorial I've ever witnessed. Thanks so much for your time in putting this together!
I actually didn't set out to do a canister removal; my heated grip wires were so buried it required tank removal to find them. Figured I'd do the canister while I was at it. It sure was great to ditch that added complexity and bulk. No idea if it runs better on my zero km Stelvio though - I'll have to wait for the snow to melt!

A small suggestion; it's quicker to cut the lines from the canister. And I routed the right side vent line straight down by the shock, rather than connecting it to the vent out the existing front line by the skidplate.

Thanks again!
 
Canuck403 said:
A small suggestion; it's quicker to cut the lines from the canister. And I routed the right side vent line straight down by the shock, rather than connecting it to the vent out the existing front line by the skidplate.
Click to expand...

I'm very pleased that you found my work helpful and thank you for the kind words!

Yes, cutting the lines would have been quicker, but then again, I wanted to keep everything in the original condition in a box in case I ever sold the bike (I realize now that this is never going to happen) and wanted to give everything intact to the next owner.

With regards to the vent line running down the shock, in my estimation, that is about the very worst place to run a vent line, thereby placing whatever comes out of that vent directly in the path of travel of the rear tire. Be careful here! Gas and tires do not play well together, especially in corners. This was my thinking as to why I used the existing front right side placement of the overflow drain.
 
freddyc said:
Hey Scott,

Do you still have that PDF doc available...

Thanx
Click to expand...

Hi freddy

Unfortunately, it was on my old windows machine that long since died. Perhaps Todd still has a copy on his archives here. GOOD LUCK!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top