• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.

Charcoal Canister Removal - Detailed with Pictures

I think we know why it was for sale unfortunately.

Some idiot with a screwdriver forced it apart breaking it and then hid it.

No photo needed. It’s toast. Sorry to give you the news.
 
Last edited:
Performed this procedure today on a bike a bought a couple weeks ago. Very helpful guide! Just a couple comments: There were three sets of 2 screws to remove the fairing/light assembly. 2 additional to the instructions bolting the fairing to the frame from underneath + the two behind the dash and the two on the front underside of the fairing, and, on my bike the right hand (ALF) vent line from the canister was routed to a breather connection on the air box under the battery, instead of down to the engine guard. There was a clamp on the engine by the engine guard - but no hose. The manual clearly shows this line should drain down the right side through the empty clamp. I corrected all this according to the procedure. My question is: what normally runs to this right hand 1/4in breather stub on the air Box? I plugged it since I didn't find any other open lines.
 
Meon2wheels said:
Performed this procedure today on a bike a bought a couple weeks ago. Very helpful guide! Just a couple comments: There were three sets of 2 screws to remove the fairing/light assembly. 2 additional to the instructions bolting the fairing to the frame from underneath + the two behind the dash and the two on the front underside of the fairing, and, on my bike the right hand (ALF) vent line from the canister was routed to a breather connection on the air box under the battery, instead of down to the engine guard. There was a clamp on the engine by the engine guard - but no hose. The manual clearly shows this line should drain down the right side through the empty clamp. I corrected all this according to the procedure. My question is: what normally runs to this right hand 1/4in breather stub on the air Box? I plugged it since I didn't find any other open lines.
Click to expand...

I’m not sure what you mean here but I assure you that my procedure is absolutely spot on for the 2012 and newer Stelvio 1200 NTX.

It was performed and photographed using my personal, brand new, bone-stock Stelvio with less than 800 miles on it.

It’s been used literally dozens of times by numerous individuals from around the world.

Perhaps you didn’t fully read? Page 14.

“You now have a decision to make. You can remove the front fairing panel either with or without the light assembly. I recommend taking the front fairing and lights as an assembly. It's much easier but I will show you both ways.
Here is a photo of what you will see looking into the dashboard area from the back of the motorcycle. There are 3 screws holding the front fairing to the light assembly. 1 on each side (in the yellow hexagons) and 1 dead- center under the yellow arrow. Again, I recommend leaving the fairing and light as an assembly (it's easier) so I would not undo these screws.”

I give you the choice of two different possible methods of removal. The hardware you remove dictates which result you get.

As to your vent line, again, I’m not sure what you are saying there but a previous owner must have done that because what you describe, no other person has encountered or wrote about.
 
Last edited:
Little doubt that's it's me - my wife says I can't see something looking right at it! Having trouble finding where these screws get removed (the lighter head screws in the picture). As you suggested, I removed everything as an assembly.

For the vent line, clearly the PO made a mod that makes no sense to me. My question was what should tie into the right hand port on the air box in case he made some other mod that needs to be corrected.

Thanks again for a very useful guide - saved me time and headache!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1171.webp
    IMG_1171.webp
    32.9 KB · Views: 26
Thank you Scott for the helpful, detailed guide! I performed the surgery this weekend. Now I just need to install Todd's map.
 
You are most welcome! I’m glad you found it helpful.
 
Hey All,

I wanted to chime in and say "Thanks" to Scott for the "Canisterectomy" tutorial.

I performed the surgery on my 13" Stelvio recently and initially it seems to be running a little better/smoother. Maybe I'll get to go for a longer ride today to get a better idea of how the modifications really changed things. I'm also curious to top off the fuel tank and see how the tank venting works in an enclosed space.

I encountered a few issues and stumbles along the way (stripped out imbedded lugs at the front of the tank! :swear:) and I took some pictures of a few other repairs that I made. I'll get those organized and posted soon.

RD
 
Greetings from the highway on the way to MuttonFest 2022 with Bill Hagan and others.

So glad you found it helpful.

You are most welcome.
 
With replacement light cluster finally in my hands, replacement of the lights will commence tomorrow.
As mine is an Australian delivery, I don't think I will have the charcoal canister issue.
My question: As I am only replacing the light cluster and not removing the canister/fuel cell etc, should I remove the light cluster and fairing as a unit or leave the fairing in situ and just change the light cluster?
Dave
 
Read the guide please.

It shows you detailed photos and procedures.

I would remove the light assembly as a unit. It’s much easier to work on it that way.
 
I have read the guide several times, and printed out the pages.
I see the bit where it says you have a choice. But it doesn't explain how to remove the lights without removing the fairing.
I'll play it by ear.
 
You cannot. You must remove the fairing assembly. The lights assembly bolts in place from the back side. Ok. Good Luck.
 
Hi guys, I have 2008 Norge, second time fighting with the fuel red/grey connector- successfuly.
Is any of you exchange this critical part with some other connector for easy?
I used flat screwdriver 3mm to release the 4 little pins inside the connector gently.
 
Last edited:
Angel Angelov said:
Hi guys, I have 2008 Norge, second time fighting with the fuel red/grey connector- successfuly.
Is any of you exchange this critical part with some other connector for easy?
I used flat screwdriver 3mm to release the 4 little pins inside the connector gently.
Click to expand...

No no no! 🤦‍♂️

See post 74 and 76 please. Just click the link below. Also the videos I made are earlier in the same thread.

You will be stupefied at just how simple it really is when you really truly understand how it works.

Charcoal Canister Removal - Detailed with Pictures

Yes you can. Having the hose on the ports just makes it easier to sync the throttle bodies if needed in the future. That is what I thought. Since my TBS Sync tool already has the hoses needed, I will just install the vacuum adapters with their caps and be done with it. Thank you!
www.guzzitech.com www.guzzitech.com
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top