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Charcoal Canister Removal - Detailed with Pictures

Thank you all so much for all of your help, especially the how to for the canister removal. Got it all put back together and was then staring at two left over bolts!!!!!the headlight unit retaining ones, that involves removing all of the bodywork again. The bike runs so smoother off idle and there is no more tank pressurizing anymore. Thank you all
 
BrianR said:
Thank you all so much for all of your help, especially the how to for the canister removal. Got it all put back together and was then staring at two left over bolts!!!!!the headlight unit retaining ones, that involves removing all of the bodywork again. The bike runs so smoother off idle and there is no more tank pressurizing anymore. Thank you all
Click to expand...

You're welcome! I'm glad you found my guide useful. Best Wishes.
 
The original post now has a PDF of the entire procedure with pictures.
 
Also, the videos of how to remove and replace the fuel fittings are on You Tube.

Search " Removing the fuel line from a 2012 Moto Guzzi Stelvio NTX"
or "Reconnecting the fuel line 2012 Moto Guzzi Stelvio NTX"


REMOVAL:


REPLACEMENT:
 
After almost a year and a half of being down I should be back on the road this weekend. I have to be really! I purchased tickets to the Overland Expo a few months ago and am really excited to go. Should be leaving a week from tomorrow. Los Angeles area to Flagstaff, Arizona. So question before I put all the body parts back on. I took the canister off. FANTASTIC write up by the way! Never could have done it without! Although my 2010 is a tad different it was super helpful. My questions is ... does the 'tip over' valve stay out? I can't see where it would go? There aren't any left over holes in the bottom of the tank :sweating:
 
rmance said:
After almost a year and a half of being down I should be back on the road this weekend. I have to be really! I purchased tickets to the Overland Expo a few months ago and am really excited to go. Should be leaving a week from tomorrow. Los Angeles area to Flagstaff, Arizona. So question before I put all the body parts back on. I took the canister off. FANTASTIC write up by the way! Never could have done it without! Although my 2010 is a tad different it was super helpful. My questions is ... does the 'tip over' valve stay out? I can't see where it would go? There aren't any left over holes in the bottom of the tank :sweating:
Click to expand...


I removed the tip over valve from mine. Never caused me a bit of problems in 7 yeas now.
 
scottmastrocinque said:
I removed the tip over valve from mine. Never caused me a bit of problems in 7 yeas now.
Click to expand...

That is great news! I worked on her all day yesterday getting the last pieces painted and will be finishing on Saturday. Now I can finish with some confidence that I didn't miss something. Really appreciate the help!
 
So I have removed the canister as per the instructions, but I am getting a fuel smell after shutdown, when I park in my garage.

Not your normal faint odor, also not terrible, but a definite fuel smell. It dissipates after several minutes. The tank isn't pressurized either positively or negatively. I cannot find the source of the smell. I have routed the tank overflow in the original position, going down on the right side by the sump, and there isn't any gas puddling on the floor, nor are there any drips I can see.

Any ideas? Anyone had this issue before?
 
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JBBenson said:
So I have removed the canister as per the instructions, but I am getting a fuel smell after shutdown, when I park in my garage.

Not your normal faint odor, also not terrible, but a definite fuel smell. It dissipates after several minutes. The tank isn't pressurized either positively or negatively. I cannot find the source of the smell. I have routed the tank overflow in the original position, going down on the right side by the sump, and there isn't any gas puddling on the floor, nor are there any drips I can see.

Any ideas? Anyone had this issue before?
Click to expand...


Of course you do! You my friend have a VERY sensitive olfactory! Some people do!

Think about it, you have a long tube, running from the fuel tank, and exiting the front of the bike. There is a direct path from gas tank to atmosphere. Fumes will move through this tube. It’s EXPECTED.

That’s why there was a charcoal canister there in the first place! To catch those fumes and send them to the fuel intake tract for combustion.

Most ordinary humans won’t detect the odor under normal conditions but your super sniffer does. You could have had a good career in the perfume distillation business with a nose like that! LOL. Truly.

You may also have a very small garage space when you quickly notice the smell where my garage is 1,000 square feet, and I rarely notice it. Think, concentration of fumes to surrounding air...

Also, the more vigorous people who like rapid start and stops and who might tend to keep their gas tanks full most times, or refill after every ride, will tend to get more fuel fumes and even drops of liquid gas (like from wheelies OR San Francisco type roads with serious elevation and descent angles of approach) that gets into the tube and floats to the outside atmosphere.

If you followed exactly the procedure I wrote, then everything is fine!

You just have a SUPER SCHNOZ!
 
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scottmastrocinque said:
Of course you do! You my friend have a VERY sensitive olfactory! Some people do!

Think about it, you have a long tube, running from the fuel tank, and exiting the front of the bike. There is a direct path from gas tank to atmosphere. Fumes will move through this tube. It’s EXPECTED.

That’s why there was a charcoal canister there in the first place! To catch those fumes and send them to the fuel intake tract for combustion.

Most ordinary humans won’t detect the odor under normal conditions but your super sniffer does. You could have had a good career in the perfume distillation business with a nose like that! LOL. Truly.

You may also have a very small garage space when you quickly notice the smell where my garage is 1,000 square feet, and I rarely notice it. Think, concentration of fumes to surrounding air...

Also, the more vigorous people who like rapid start and stops and who might tend to keep their gas tanks full most times, or refill after every ride, will tend to get more fuel fumes and even drops of liquid gas (like from wheelies OR San Francisco type roads with serious elevation and descent angles of approach) that gets into the tube and floats to the outside atmosphere.

If you followed exactly the procedure I wrote, then everything is fine!

You just have a SUPER SCHNOZ!
Click to expand...
I second the Super Schnoz vote
 
I will do this process when I have time, but in the meantime cant, I just cut the hose, connect them together between the carbs and make it work for now? I need my bike, I did the ECU flash and do not have the time to take my moto apart now.
 
Jerome J Sorich said:
I will do this process when I have time, but in the meantime cant, I just cut the hose, connect them together between the carbs and make it work for now? I need my bike, I did the ECU flash and do not have the time to take my moto apart now.
Click to expand...
Yes you can. Use a rubber hose to connect the two throttle bodies, or you can plug the line to the canister as well. You’ll want to address the tip over valve sooner than later as well.
 
So one day, Nicodemus asked Jesus how might one be born again? He can not enter his mother's womb a second time, can he? Todd from Guzzi Tech interrupted and said, "get your self a GT Motorcycle Reflash Tool" from Guzzi Tech, and your Moto Guzzi will be born again! Of course, Nicodemus and Jesus brushed him off because Moto Guzzi was not invented yet, but the story is fun anyway!

LOL, I did the reflash, removed the carbon canister and re-routed the hoses per the forum guidelines, and gutted the check valve. What a difference!!!! I would get popping on deceleration no more! The throttle is smooth and steady, power in so smooth too. Thanks, Todd! AMAZING!!!!

And thank you, Scott, from OHIO for the information on this thread!!!!
 
Jerome J Sorich said:
... And thank you, Scott, from OHIO for the information on this thread!!!!
Click to expand...

You are most welcome! I'm glad so many people have been able to use my guide to do this for themselves. Enjoy your Moto Guzzi!
 
Scott,
Thank you very much for sharing this info as I started installing a video camera system, I removed all the front fairing and am about to remove the gas tank, came here to see if there is a catch to gas tank removal mainly because of that pressurized line. Glad to have found this thread.
I decided to do the canister removal procedure as well but I had a question about the part on re-connecting the vacuum ports to each other using a part of the removed hose and either M6 vacuum adapters or the stock banjo nuts.

"Decision time again. You can either reuse the original banjo nuts (cut them
loose from the hose you removed earlier), or you will need your own M6
vacuum port adapters. Reconnect either the original banjo nuts (don't
forget the 2 o-rings, 1 above and 1 below, or your own vacuum port
adapters to the throttle bodies (you have to plug those holes you made by
removing the banjo bolts).
Now, using your extra hose you have removed, (you will have to trim the
hose to the proper length), pass it through the middle of the motorcycle and
connect a hose between both the left and right side banjo nuts or M6
vacuum adapters you have in the throttle-bodies. "

Why do these ports need to be connected to each other using a hose? Can I not just plug them with M6 adapters + caps and be done with it?

TIA
 
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