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Finished sanding the arms before sending all the parts to the powder coating.
Now, I need to figure out a way of cutting a car mirror glass in the shape of the mirror cases. One of the glasses is missing but I want to make new glasses for both sides.
I watched a thing on the internet about some German company, that polished what looked like some metal ( Aluminium ?) to a mirror surface.
Cut yourself some circles and go to it on the lathe.
I watched a thing on the internet about some German company, that polished what looked like some metal ( Aluminium ?) to a mirror surface.
Cut yourself some circles and go to it on the lathe.
I have some polishing wheels and compounds, but the arms are made from two different materials. The bottom halves are made out of some kind of carbon steel, the top halves I've made them out of stainless.
Polishing them is possible, but the bottom halves will probably rust...this is why I am considering powder coating.
When it comes to color, wha do you guys say? The same black as on handlebars or some kind of silver to imitate the aluminum color?
I watched a thing on the internet about some German company, that polished what looked like some metal ( Aluminium ?) to a mirror surface.
Cut yourself some circles and go to it on the lathe.
Motogadget. It's aluminium cut to 50 microns (from memory) Not polished though - the final cut is the mirror finish. I have them on the Centenario. Great mirrors, if somewhat on the not cheap side!
Wait, now I read it again. I wrongly understood the first time. I know that also Rizoma had some aluminum mirrors, interesting thing.
From my previous experience, I can achieve the mirror shine, but aluminum scratches easily once it is polished and also gets a bit dull. Other than polishing, I think that the surface gets some kind of protection treatment.
Motogadget. It's aluminium cut to 50 microns (from memory) Not polished though - the final cut is the mirror finish. I have them on the Centenario. Great mirrors, if somewhat on the not cheap side!
It looks a little different now from then. Rizoma ace bars now fitted, my mark 2 tank strap and fitted an old MG fuel cap that I've sprayed black and de-keyed (Machined a slug of steel to diameter & depth of the lock.
No the kick lever is standard. Maybe looks different because of the Mistral's?
The rear is a Baak Mini Rear mudguard - They are French (have a US shop as well I think). The light that comes with it I thought was too small so changed it for a Motone Customs Eldorado Tail Light + Fender Mount Kit
Screen shot from a video I took at the weekend after a mucky rid through the Dublin mountains in fog and 5 degrees (C)
It looks a little different now from then. Rizoma ace bars now fitted, my mark 2 tank strap and fitted an old MG fuel cap that I've sprayed black and de-keyed (Machined a slug of steel to diameter & depth of the lock.
No the kick lever is standard. Maybe looks different because of the Mistral's?
The rear is a Baak Mini Rear mudguard - They are French (have a US shop as well I think). The light that comes with it I thought was too small so changed it for a Motone Customs Eldorado Tail Light + Fender Mount Kit
Screen shot from a video I took at the weekend after a mucky rid through the Dublin mountains in fog and 5 degrees (C)
Thank you so much for taking your time to explain all the things. I'm sure I've seen your bike before this forum, but I cannot remember if YouTube or Facebook. I remember the brushed exhaust headers, they look so nice.
I was asking about the center stand because If I remember correctly, someone who mounted Mistral or Agostini exhaust cans said that the center stand kick lever is way too much outside the bike's lines compared to the standard exhaust look, and that because the standard exhaust have a different shape (an elbow).
Either way, If the center stand is sticking out, I'm going to shorten the kick lever to make it more tidy.
By the way, did you used the standard center stand stopper / exhaust bracket or you've ordered the special one from Mistral? Just as a curiosity, I didn't ordered the special one because I forgot, but I'm going to make myself one.
Thank you so much for taking your time to explain all the things. I'm sure I've seen your bike before this forum, but I cannot remember if YouTube or Facebook. I remember the brushed exhaust headers, they look so nice.
I was asking about the center stand because If I remember correctly, someone who mounted Mistral or Agostini exhaust cans said that the center stand kick lever is way too much outside the bike's lines compared to the standard exhaust look, and that because the standard exhaust have a different shape (an elbow).
Either way, If the center stand is sticking out, I'm going to shorten the kick lever to make it more tidy.
By the way, did you used the standard center stand stopper / exhaust bracket or you've ordered the special one from Mistral? Just as a curiosity, I didn't ordered the special one because I forgot, but I'm going to make myself one.
I got the Mistral stopper. No cost option but you have to ask for it. I believe the MG item will work but might need modification.
I'll take a photo from above of the centre stand kick arm later for comparison. I don't have a problem with it. Then again my welding skills are rubbish.
I got the Mistral stopper. No cost option but you have to ask for it. I believe the MG item will work but might need modification.
I'll take a photo from above of the centre stand kick arm later for comparison. I don't have a problem with it. Then again my welding skills are rubbish.
Due to the curve of the exhaust and the foot of the lever if you drop the foot to the be level with the closest point of the exhaust that gap would be 50mm. So room to trim.
Due to the curve of the exhaust and the foot of the lever if you drop the foot to the be level with the closest point of the exhaust that gap would be 50mm. So room to trim.
Hey there, Guzzisti! Last few days I've pulled my trousers and took off the rear fender to make my own version of fender eliminator. Pretty nervous about it, since there are chances that I cannot make it as I want...but the trigger has been pulled, fingers crossed.
Also, great news!!! My exhaust cans arrived in the weekend and I've fit them on the bike. There are some things (i'm nitpicknig) that I don't like - the standard brackets from Mistral. I'm going to create my own design, to fit them as best as possible.
Also, I am ashamed to admit but I've made a ding in one of the cans. I've wanted to take the measurements for the center stand stop bracket and my foot slipped > the center stand hit the left can and made a slight dent. Needless to say it ruined my day but it is what it is, I will straighten it up in the future, not a big deal. You cannot even see it unless you are under the bike.
Now, back to the project: I don't like the standard tail light nor what I can find on the market (actually there are some nice options but I am a cheap-ass and I like to do it myself...therefore I've opened the standard tail light unit and took the electronics. It seems to be exactly what I'm looking for.
Ofc, it is not that simple. An adapter plate needs to be made, a case with a threaded lid, etc. But I like having nice things so I'm open to work for them.
Starting with the adapter plate...I'm going to 3D print it since it is an internal spacer actually. Last night I've tried my novice hand on Fusion 360 and I've cam up with this...thing.
Ugh...I've also made a video of me installing the exhaust cans.
I love your thinking and eager to see what ya gonna come up with
If I may suggest something, leave bottom plastic cover on. The small one at the bottom of swingarm that covers clutch cable at the gearbox. It's invisible anyway and a lot of dust and dirt goes there from rear wheel that ya don't want in that area. Also, before I made my under seat fiberglass fender/storage I was riding without it and noticed that some little dirt was gathering on fuse box/air filter area. That was again from rear wheel through the bottom of naked seat. It'd be wise to cover that open frame somehow or make a barrier from the bottom of the seat to the frame at a fuse box section. If I can't explain correctly (English is not my first language and I'll play that card whenever I want LOL), have a look at your bike from the rear without your fender- there's a gap between the bottom of your seat and the frame, that's where dirt and dust shoots from your rear wheel...
I love your thinking and eager to see what ya gonna come up with
If I may suggest something, leave bottom plastic cover on. The small one at the bottom of swingarm that covers clutch cable at the gearbox. It's invisible anyway and a lot of dust and dirt goes there from rear wheel that ya don't want in that area. Also, before I made my under seat fiberglass fender/storage I was riding without it and noticed that some little dirt was gathering on fuse box/air filter area. That was again from rear wheel through the bottom of naked seat. It'd be wise to cover that open frame somehow or make a barrier from the bottom of the seat to the frame at a fuse box section. If I can't explain correctly (English is not my first language and I'll play that card whenever I want LOL), have a look at your bike from the rear without your fender- there's a gap between the bottom of your seat and the frame, that's where dirt and dust shoots from your rear wheel...
Hey there, Mindi! I tip my hat in front of you, sir! Your skill level of DIY is amazing, therefore I'm glad that you've joined this discussion.
We are thinking the same regarding this matter. I've left that piece of plastic there, I don't want to remove it because of the dirt and grime. More than this, I want to make a rubber extender of some kind for that piece of plastic, to protect the clutch arm from sand and water thrown by the rear wheel.
Also, regarding the tray itself, I am thinking to build something with some high walls so the water cannot enter under the seat and to protect my tool bag, electrical connections and fuses. This is one of the reasons why I am building this myself and not buying - every option on the market is just a piece of flat metal sheet with some bends in it and it is costing a lot of $.
The other is that I like DIY a lot.
I also want to make a new electrical harness for the rear section of brake light / number plate light / turn signals, it is very simple to do it and I'm going to make it a bit more tidy than Guzzi did it. Need to source some connectors, at least the main one that plugs into the main harness.
This is a quick sketch of the unfolded tray. All the parts will be folded and welded (I need to ask someone to weld aluminum for me since I don't have a TIG welder) and then bolted using the standard bolts of OEM rear fender.
Now I need to pull up my trousers again and learn how to make this in CAD so I can cut it out of 3mm aluminum sheet.
Actually I'm questioning myself if I should go for 2mm, 2.5 or 3mm aluminum sheet.
My megalomaniac minds tells me to use 3mm because the brake light / turn signals and number plate will be mounted on a custom holder / bracket - that will be over-engineered imho - and I don't want to risk any cracks in the undertray
Mt. Lemmon it was 34 but 64 at 3000.
