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UpMap Q&A

@GTM® Todd, your post on the OBD thread reminded me if something I was wondering about: I don’t see an option specifically to reset the TPS on UpMap, but I’m assuming it is part of the flashing routine. Do you happen to know if that’s true or not? If so, reloading the map might be the only way to do a TPS reset.
Yes, it is part of the process, and done with the key on/off step at the end.
 
Thanks for the post, and every order is followed with the words below. We're in frustratingly strange times right now with products.
The video I shot was literally the second time I used the software after a month prior to the very first time. I'm glad I did the video to l help others, as I also learned what needed to be done (including re-watching it several times since myself).
I remain in contact with UpMap in awaiting whatever hoops they want me to jump through next to be able to supply my maps, however they do not want me to make a penny off of my work, allowing them to sell it via the app. This remains a real problem for me as it's this knowledge/time and intellectual property that is the only value to me. They aren't allowing me to make any real money off of the device.

In these unprecedented times of post-COVID-19, worldwide shipping REMAINS affected at every level. Consequently, we are experiencing unanticipated and significantly longer delays from our suppliers, as they no doubt are also experiencing the same delays and challenges from theirs. Regrettably, the situation is beyond our control. We are all in this worldwide shipping frustration right now.
I can understand your frustration, it makes little sense from a tuner's business viewpoint. It seems like Rexxer's approach is far better if it worked with this ECU.

I also don't like their business model, buying a unit for every bike vs one unit and paying for the applicable maps.

On the Ducati side of things it seems Termi is by far the majority exhaust vender.
 
Although this was well covered and all you had to do was SEARCH and read as Todd has told you, I like to teach people to THINK about what is actually happening underneath their balls, while riding on a motorcycle.

Understanding what is happening, is the key.

Fuel injection”maps” alter one thing, the DURATION the fuel injector is OPEN. This changes the amount of fuel being squirted into the intake. Maps seek to optimize air:fuel ratios.

Ride modes, alter the RATE the throttle inputs are PROCESSED and ACTED UPON by the ECU. Instead of providing instant translation, the software “dampens” the response rate, and slows down the transition to a more gradual application of the throttle.

So in RAIN mode for example; a rapid whacking open of the throttle would normally put power to the wheels instantly, and there would be a loss of traction at the rear wheel, potentially causing fishtailing or other chassis instability. The RIDE MODE PROGRAM, intercepts this throttle signal and smooths it out to a more gradual application of the throttle.

Think “gentle roll on” vs. “whacked open instantly” and how the motorcycle would behave in these two very different situations.

The analogy I use is the throttle without riding modes, responds like a regular light switch; off/on, while the RIDE MODE software behaves like a dimmer switch that you turn uniformly and gradually. Both take you to the same place, one instantly and the other gradually!

So, you can mentally see, that these 2 very different components in your motorcycle design, affect two very different things entirely, and are not affected one by the other.

One other complication in the mix.

On very sophisticated systems like the modern BMW motorcycle with active suspensions, in the RIDE MODE, not only is the throttle signal dampened, the actual electronic suspension is also modified as well.

👌👍😀
Thank you kind sir! Really do appreciate your reply. You have cleared up all my questions! Cheers 🙏🏻
 
First of all I must say that on my euro 4 85tt the upmap US link pipe/ zard pipe reflash has done exactly what the description said in the store. 4000kms in and I’m still a happy camper. The question I have is this … I ride two up and the old lady is getting a little bothered by my new brap brap sounding loud pipes (yes I know boys) instead of shoveling out the 110
Euros for the tune with just the stock pipe/ link pipe, will
My current tune freak out with the stock slip on re installed ? I tried to find someone who had a similar question in the forum, without luck so I’m posting the question now. Cheers! My initial thoughts is it should be fine maybe a bit rich?
 
It will run rich.

If you intend to run it with the stock pipe all of the time now, purchase the correct map.

Your engine will thank you for it and your wallet won’t really miss the €110.
 
First of all I must say that on my euro 4 85tt the upmap US link pipe/ zard pipe reflash has done exactly what the description said in the store. 4000kms in and I’m still a happy camper. The question I have is this … I ride two up and the old lady is getting a little bothered by my new brap brap sounding loud pipes (yes I know boys) instead of shoveling out the 110
Euros for the tune with just the stock pipe/ link pipe, will
My current tune freak out with the stock slip on re installed ? I tried to find someone who had a similar question in the forum, without luck so I’m posting the question now. Cheers! My initial thoughts is it should be fine maybe a bit rich?
You can easily quiet down the loud pipe just take it off and look it over and you'll figure out a way or one of your local mechanics can figure it out. There used to be a thing called a snuff or not. You can make one.
 
First of all I must say that on my euro 4 85tt the upmap US link pipe/ zard pipe reflash has done exactly what the description said in the store. 4000kms in and I’m still a happy camper. The question I have is this … I ride two up and the old lady is getting a little bothered by my new brap brap sounding loud pipes (yes I know boys) instead of shoveling out the 110
Euros for the tune with just the stock pipe/ link pipe, will
My current tune freak out with the stock slip on re installed ? I tried to find someone who had a similar question in the forum, without luck so I’m posting the question now. Cheers! My initial thoughts is it should be fine maybe a bit rich?
Hi Matthew, the cat is in the underbody pre-muffler, so swapping the slip-on (even to stock) shouldn't create a big issue. Believe it or not, the stock (bike) map is actually richer on the bottom of the RPM range then a modified one, so try it and see how it works with the current map.
 
Hi Matthew, the cat is in the underbody pre-muffler, so swapping the slip-on (even to stock) shouldn't create a big issue. Believe it or not, the stock (bike) map is actually richer on the bottom of the RPM range then a modified one, so try it and see how it works with the current map.
Thanks! I’ll give it a shot and see how she runs!
 
It will run rich.

If you intend to run it with the stock pipe all of the time now, purchase the correct map.

Your engine will thank you for it and your wallet won’t really miss the €110.
I assume you’ve tried this? I will buy the map if the bike runs poorly. With the link pipe installed the difference from
The stock slip on and the zard slip on pipe can’t be that drastic…right? Either way I’ve got the info I need to make a calculated decision. Thank you for your response!
 
Todd (GTM) here is the FI Guru. He says that the stock map on your motorcycle is actually richer in the lower band. Listen to what he says as he is the Moto Guzzi FI guy.

I am also a mechanic and have FI experience but Todd has much more in this specific area.
 
Todd (GTM) here is the FI Guru. He says that the stock map on your motorcycle is actually richer in the lower band. Listen to what he says as he is the Moto Guzzi FI guy.

I am also a mechanic and have FI experience but Todd has much more in this specific area.
Right on! Thanks Scott!
 
Does anyone know if this "mod" will correct the knock / ping we get with the V85TT's? I searched but could not find an answer.......THIS issue if it's corrected would make me a potential buyer. I've had the latest ECU factory map installed..but still no go. Right now, the best combo I have is the Mistral dongle, Todd's y-pipe and a GPR carbon can. She seems to like that set-up the best. With this, we're almost home but when it gets hot {85 degrees +}, she doesn't like it, especially during a low rpm take-off. And please guys, don't want to hear "avoid that rpm range", because you can't.....we all know how to ride, and we all know it ain't a 600cc sportbike. It's expected from this engine to have some low end......

Edit...sorry. Should've mentioned......2020 US spec. 8100 miles currently.
 
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Does anyone know if this "mod" will correct the knock / ping we get with the V85TT's? I searched but could not find an answer.......THIS issue if it's corrected would make me a potential buyer. I've had the latest ECU factory map installed..but still no go. Right now, the best combo I have is the Mistral dongle, Todd's y-pipe and a GPR carbon can. She seems to like that set-up the best. With this, we're almost home but when it gets hot {85 degrees +}, she doesn't like it, especially during a low rpm take-off. And please guys, don't want to hear "avoid that rpm range", because you can't.....we all know how to ride, and we all know it ain't a 600cc sportbike. It's expected from this engine to have some low end......
The upmap flash has fixed the infamous pinging for me. (2020 euro 4 bike)
 
Hi all,
By means of introducing myself properly as I've been lurking around for a while - I'm based in Eastern Europe and happily ride a 2020 V85TT Travel, Euro 4. Really good info on this forum, thanks to lots of knowledgeable people.

Just to check my understanding: would a link pipe with a high-flow cat be more closely related to a straight-through link pipe (no cat) from a tune requirements perspective?

As a bit of a background: for about 9,000km I've been running the stock cat/final exhaust/air filter with the corresponding up-map tune. Bike has been running a lot better than with the stock fuel map, but still got the occasional engine rattle/knocking with poor gas. What I noticed straight away was zero exhaust burbling on the overrun, compared to the stock tune.

Got a Mistral link pipe with the high flow cat plus a K&N - great overall improvement, much lower heat, no knocking anymore, almost all perfect. Except now the exhaust burbling is back plus some pops and the occasional loud bang - obviously the SAS is the culprit here, but does the high-flow cat make the engine run significantly leaner now? Considering purchasing the link-pipe/oem final exhaust map as correct fueling is what I'm after and eliminating the exhaust bangs - the burbles and pops are actually pretty cool.

Thanks!
 
2021 V85 E5 - Upmap, decat, K&N filter, SAS removed . I had a few issues getting the map from the Upmap site. Eventually got the correct map downloaded. My first impression is a big low end grunt of power that pulls to redline. I will be spending some more time over the next several weeks taking many short and a few long range trips. I'll let you know my findings.
 
I had a few issues getting the map from the Upmap site.

Seems like this happens to everyone…

I guess their site must be confusing as hell because so many people have written how they got the wrong map, blah blah blah…

I’m feeling all your pain!
 
Seems like this happens to everyone…
I guess their site must be confusing as hell because so many people have written how they got the wrong map, blah blah blah…
I’m feeling all your pain!
The app shows EU and US map selections, once you know it, it's obvious. The clear sign is that it won't allow your selection which seems to freeze most, instead of selecting another map.
 
The app shows EU and US map selections, once you know it, it's obvious. The clear sign is that it won't allow your selection which seems to freeze most, instead of selecting another map.
The issue with downloading the map was on the site side. They had the wrong map to the correct link. The unit will not allow you to download an EU map to and US model. After talking with them they straightened out the linking issue.
My initial impression with the mapping and the setup I have is a beefy low end with continual pull through the RPM range. It is noticeable. I will be testing it more thoroughly first weekend in Oct. on a long trip.
 
At low speed the approval is really improved, more flexibility, no hesitation when opening.
On the other hand, higher in the 4500-500 rpm revs, it's almost too aggressive, the advance should perhaps be reduced a little, from what I have seen the spark advance has not been adjusted, Also the closed gas AFR table has not been adjusted, so the pops remain.
But overall it's still very much appreciated, a good job on main AFR.
I hope we can have a "Todd" version (EU too)...
 
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