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V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ

Got the bike out of the shop late today.

They installed the new VR and had to splice some new wires into the harness that showed signs of heat damage.

Apparently some bad VR's got out of the factory at some time.

So heads up...... check out your voltage regulators.

The high voltage will play havoc with the entire electrical systems.
 
Replaced the burnt fuse. Turned key to "on" and lights turned on, etc.

Hit start button and nothing. Did my battery die somehow in the process? Shouldn't be though, because diagnostics said 13.1 at battery. Too low to start it perhaps? Not sure what's up.

Could I have messed something up when reinstalling the new mosfet unit. I still had the battery connected like an idiot. Might've plugged in the negative wire before the positive into the new plugs. Still showing 0611 code too on diag.
 
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Check the easy stuff first. Kill switch, bike's in neutral, clutch lever. It's easy to bump something and not pay attention at the time.

You know, I did realize I was trying to start it without the clutch in and it wasn't in neutral (wow...). So then, I was like "whew" it's nothing. Nope. Put it in neutral, kill switch always to "on", hit the starter and nothing. Frustrating...
 
lights go on, high beam works, horn sounds loud...

but simply nothing when i push the starter.

seems hard to believe that the VR is defective but that's possible I suppose.
 
Yes the fuel pump kicks on when I turn the key to on.

I switched out the middle relay with the one behind it if you're facing the handlebars in the saddle. Still nothing. They are 4 prong not 5, assuming I did the right ones.

Still nothing. Lights, high beam, horn work but nothing when I hit the starter.


When I pull the 30a fuse and re insert it sparks a little. Is that normal? Battery connected.

Is it possible that the centurion diag put the ecu in sleep mode when it wasn't connecting and I had it hooked up? Not sure how that works really, I just know it states that when you turn the bike on with diag running and don't connect within 10 seconds.
 
All the sudden it started. Wtf?

That's a good thing I guess but has me hesitant.

Voltage is showing 14v at 3000-4000 rpm in diagnostics and less at idle (can remember exact at idle). Was showing 15v at idle and same at 3k rpm before new mosfet unit.

Still showing that error code though of 0611. Not sure if that will clear or what to do about that.
 
All the sudden it started. Wtf?

That's a good thing I guess but has me hesitant.

Voltage is showing 14v at 3000-4000 rpm in diagnostics and less at idle (can remember exact at idle). Was showing 15v at idle and same at 3k rpm before new mosfet unit.

Still showing that error code though of 0611. Not sure if that will clear or what to do about that.
I m glad you made it :)... i m waiting for my mosfet unit to arrive...but my mechanic will work on it
 
I'm suspecting that my ecu went into sleep mode when I didn't connect the bike in time while hooked up to diag because I was fuckin brain farting and trying to start the bike in gear without the clutch pulled in...just a guess though.
 
Wondering if when I switched the starter relay out with the one behind it (the injector relay I believe), if somehow that's what got it to start. However, it did not start immediately after I switched it, which makes me think it wasn't that. I just don't want to have a bad relay now on the injector relay, but would the bike even start with a bad injector relay? I can simply order a new relay and pop it on the injector relay to be sure but hoping to avoid that if possible. Any thoughts?
 
Wondering if when I switched the starter relay out with the one behind it (the injector relay I believe), if somehow that's what got it to start. However, it did not start immediately after I switched it, which makes me think it wasn't that. I just don't want to have a bad relay now on the injector relay, but would the bike even start with a bad injector relay? I can simply order a new relay and pop it on the injector relay to be sure but hoping to avoid that if possible. Any thoughts?

Something as simple as the replacement fuse not fully inserted the first time?
 
Could be a self programming delay in the ECU unit. I've seen this post before on the Bonneville forum. I know on my truck I replaced a few sensors and the truck had to go through a few cycles before things operated as normal.
 
Don't over-think it. It was likely a simple combo of key on too long, and/or not in neutral/clutch switch issue. If it arises again, then worry about it. The ECU doesn't have a sleep mode, only if the battery voltage is too low it won't allow it to turn the motor.
 
Sounds good. I'll check the 0611 error code again at another time to see if cycled out. If the check engine light doesn't come back on then that's a good sign.
 
Every bike I connect to shows 0611, and clearing it doesn't seem to matter.
 
Bob,
We think Guzzi installed that higher switching voltage regulator/rectifier on purpose. They are all like that. All measure same.

There was no way to expand the alternator size because of the wheel and casting positions so they bumped up the voltage of the zener diode gate switch. Yeah, poor substitute but it was cheap!

You can go back to 14.6VDC reg/rec if you want but in our opinion it doesn’t resolve anything really.
 
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