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V7 III Evap/Tip removal

This next on my list. Thank you for the detailed instructions and pics. Couple questions before I begin.

1. Regarding plugging the line from the intake — where did you source the metal slug?

2. I was also thinking of just removing the line entirely, and capping the intake with a 1/4” vacuum cap and oetiker clamp. Would that work? or is the back pressure too great? If not, what are some other options?

3. For those that have removed the canister entirely — it looks like it’s attached with a zip tie to a rather large metal bracket welded to the frame. Does it look a little odd without anything there? Any issue there?

Thanks again.
 
I still have the canister fitted on my V7-III Stone, I saw no reason to remove it. I did have to relocate it slightly when I installed the Hepco & Becker centre stand.
 
Oadslug said:
This next on my list. Thank you for the detailed instructions and pics. Couple questions before I begin.

1. Regarding plugging the line from the intake — where did you source the metal slug?

2. I was also thinking of just removing the line entirely, and capping the intake with a 1/4” vacuum cap and oetiker clamp. Would that work? or is the back pressure too great? If not, what are some other options?

3. For those that have removed the canister entirely — it looks like it’s attached with a zip tie to a rather large metal bracket welded to the frame. Does it look a little odd without anything there? Any issue there?

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Just plug them with rubber plugs from an auto parts store....couple dollars. I cut a small piece of black Gorilla Brand waterproof and seal tape and sealed them off. And used less than a 1/4 inch of tape to grab and wrap the rubber slug. I don't believe the pressure is strong. Have more than 500 mile since, no issues. Yeah the canister is held by a zip tie, snip and go. No one is looking under your bike. No issue.
 
TimmyTheHog said:
I love and understand the reason why of removal...
but I am same as dave...if it ain't broken, don't fix it LOL...that is me
Click to expand...
The reason why is so that you get to chose when and where you take it out of the system. Better at home in the shed with tools than out on a road, in the rain and no tools.
 
I don't understand how the canister work but I am starting to think if we block inlet port on intake manifold completely, remove hose from canister to manifold or cut it short and remove check valve then the reconnect the hose. Will the fuel tank still breathable? I think if I leave the remain system without check valve will help slowing the fuel leak when crash.

eee.webp
 
For those who did this mod, what do you guys use to cap the hoses once they have been snipped?

I want a clean look and am thinking a rubber/plastic end cap with oetiker clamps?
 
dududuckling said:
For those who did this mod, what do you guys use to cap the hoses once they have been snipped?

I want a clean look and am thinking a rubber/plastic end cap with oetiker clamps?
Click to expand...

I left the hose attached to the intake but plugged it with clevis pin I bought at Home Depot. I bought three diameters and returned the two that wouldn't fit.
 
Tequilasunriser said:
For those who are a bit more visually minded here is a CAD image from the service manual showing where to cut and block the hoses.

To block the vacuum hose I used a $0.68 dowel rod from ACE hardware and a couple of small hose clamps. It's similar to Godfrey's method but using hose clamps rather than glue to secure the plug/dowel.

Thanks for your guides, Godfrey.

View attachment 15283
Click to expand...

I'm thinking of using Tequila's third method: Remove hose 5 and cut above the breather valve #3 on hose 4. If possible, I'd like to remove hose 5, 4, evap can for a clean removal and I see less hoses in the maze and if the next user wants to put it back on, it is an option.
 

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avlis said:
I left the hose attached to the intake but plugged it with clevis pin I bought at Home Depot. I bought three diameters and returned the two that wouldn't fit.
Click to expand...

Do you by any chance remember the diameter? Attached to the intake, I'm assuming hose 5? Thanks for your input.
 
I finished the job today. Remove all system completely. Reuse original hose and add smaller diameter hose at the end.
On intake, I use 6mm silicone cap to block air inlet.
Edited: I don't cut any hose but file the bent edge of the clamp and use pliers to remove the clamp. So all of them was removed without any damage(except hose clamps).

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Did you plug the remaining vent hose? We’ve all left it open to air.
 
Andrew Joy said:
Did I do something wrong? After doing this mod, I was menuevering my tank a bit and gas started to come out of the snipped hose that use to have the filter on it. Will this happen any time I fill my tank up all the way?
Click to expand...
Yes it will... this is why I recommend gutting the tip valve and leave it connected to the evap can if you leave that in place. If you eliminate it, don't fill your tank all the way. I usually leave mine ~1/2" below the filler neck.
 
Did I do something wrong? After doing this mod, I was menuevering my tank a bit and gas started to come out of the snipped hose that use to have the filter on it. Will this happen any time I fill my tank up all the way?
 
Hey, Todd seems to recommend a slightly different approach. Leaving the canister in place will prevent gas leaking on a full tank? Not sure how:) Is there a link of his procedure?!
Thanks for your time friends.
 
StevieChoice said:
Hey, Todd seems to recommend a slightly different approach. Leaving the canister in place will prevent gas leaking on a full tank? Not sure how:) Is there a link of his procedure?!
Thanks for your time friends.
Click to expand...
I removed mine last summer and always fill to the top of the tank.. Have never had any issue with gas leaking.
 
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