So the problem in line 5 is that valve. Can I just disconnect it from the canister and leave it open?
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V7 III Evap/Tip removal
- Thread starterGodfrey
- Start date
Richard Ducati
Tuned and Synch'ed
The cannister side can be left open...the manifold side, however, needs to be plugged to avoid a vacuum leak.So the problem in line 5 is that valve. Can I just disconnect it from the canister and leave it open?
PokeyGuzzi
Tuned and Synch'ed
Would it be a dumb idea to put a small fuel filter at the end of the un-plugged hose? I’m thinking it would both keep any dust from possibly getting up the line, and also slow the flow of any fuel that makes its way down the line. Is there a better filter idea? Or is it pointless?
It's a good idea, I believe that Todd was working on one for this exact use, but am not sure.
Some people like it and feel more secure doing it. In the distant past I added a small K&N filter to the breather on my Ducati 750GT; I know it was there for 6000 miles but noticed it missing at 36000 miles; never saw any difference in the oil or running behavior of the bike. My LeMans V ran over 100,000 miles with just an open tube as a vent breather on the tank and never had a single problem, as did many other motorcycles I've owned. Because of that, I think it's pointless.
Since I did my EVAP removal, I added a short extension to the tank breather hose so that it hangs down just below the starter/level with the bottom of the transmission, purely because I thought the short hose was a little too short... I've never had any fumes from it nor has there been any evidence that dust has gotten into the tank from it.
squirrelyrf
Just got it firing!
I've got a 17' V9 bobber , does the evap removal apply to the V9 as it does to the 7. If so could an occasional run away or hanging throttle issue occurring when the bike is hot be caused by the evap system. I've checked the throttle cable and no hang up or pinch, bike only has maybe 2000 miles on it . I have appointment with mech and dealer, but ?
Sure is, and shouldn’t cause a hanging idle, no. Sounds like something else may be wrong (though intake leak would cause a high idle.)
PokeyGuzzi
Tuned and Synch'ed
I just performed this operation after reading through this thread over the past couple of weeks. The whole thing took me less than an hour. Could probably be done in 15 minutes if you’ve done it twice already.
One thing I did, which I haven’t seen mentioned yet, is purchase some stainless barbed plugs on eBay. If you search “1/4 stainless barb plug” you’ll get several results. Worked perfectly to plug the hose. I also used a brass 1/4” barbed coupler from the hardware store to extend the breather hose down below everything. That way if it does leak (which I don’t expect), it’ll leak onto the ground without getting on anything. I used oetiker clamps on all fittings.
I wasn’t having any issues that made this immediately necessary, but it would need to be done when my 2>1 exhaust eventually shows up. I had some free time so figured now’s as good a time as any.
One thing I did, which I haven’t seen mentioned yet, is purchase some stainless barbed plugs on eBay. If you search “1/4 stainless barb plug” you’ll get several results. Worked perfectly to plug the hose. I also used a brass 1/4” barbed coupler from the hardware store to extend the breather hose down below everything. That way if it does leak (which I don’t expect), it’ll leak onto the ground without getting on anything. I used oetiker clamps on all fittings.
I wasn’t having any issues that made this immediately necessary, but it would need to be done when my 2>1 exhaust eventually shows up. I had some free time so figured now’s as good a time as any.
Roger65
Just got it firing!
So I think I understand this. If I wanted to remove everything cleanly I could
1) Remove hose 5 from manifold and use a vacuum cap on the manifold stub
2)Remove Hose (5) Canister (1) Hose (2) and Valve (3)
3)Extend Hose (4) down to vent below bike
Keep removed parts for next owner to reinstall if desired.
Am I on the right track? I know this has been explained five different ways, I’m a slow learner.
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PokeyGuzzi
Tuned and Synch'ed
Step 3 is optional, but yes you’ve got it right. The vac cap on the manifold would need securing of some kind. Otherwise, a backfire could blow it off. Someone mentioned, I think in this thread somewhere, that leaving the hose on and plugging at the end gives the gasses a little expansion room. I don’t know if it’s enough to make a difference...
Roger65
Just got it firing!
Excellent! Thank you
Roger65
Just got it firing!
So I did the evap delete, here is where my fuel line ended up venting
Here is where I cut and capped the vacuum line to the manifold.
Here is a photo of what I removed.
Everything was straightforward, not sure about the fuel venting location. Maybe I will put a small filter on the line. I can see vapor coming out of there after a ride.
I would drop a few $ to upgrade, rather than amputate, but realize I'm in the minority.
For now, I just leave the fuel filler cap too loose to vacuum seal.
I have to do a lot of stop and go on my commute- sometimes an hour with net speed 8 mph. Usually around the 40 min mark, irrespective of air temp, the idle will kick up a couple hundred rpm. This can happen with no control inputs, dead stop/no jostling, feet on the ground.
I could see it as a design element to increase oiling during hot temps/low rpms, or to increase flow through the cats, but have never read anything along those lines.
Thought maybe the fuel pump was impeded pulling down the fuel when the cap was tight if the evap system wasn't working well, hence the looser cap approach.
For now, I just leave the fuel filler cap too loose to vacuum seal.
I have to do a lot of stop and go on my commute- sometimes an hour with net speed 8 mph. Usually around the 40 min mark, irrespective of air temp, the idle will kick up a couple hundred rpm. This can happen with no control inputs, dead stop/no jostling, feet on the ground.
I could see it as a design element to increase oiling during hot temps/low rpms, or to increase flow through the cats, but have never read anything along those lines.
Thought maybe the fuel pump was impeded pulling down the fuel when the cap was tight if the evap system wasn't working well, hence the looser cap approach.
dududuckling
Cruisin' Guzzisti
I brought it to the mechanic today and had this completed.
On the breather line from the gas tank to the Evap canister: the valve is removed / by-passed, so the line is straight and open.
On the vacuum line from the Evap canister to the intake manifold: cut in the middle, jam a slug on the opening closest to the intake manifold (I put yellow clamp and zip-tied to make sure the slug stays in place), on the side to the Evap canister is removed.
Evap canister stays in place and has an open end on the side where the vacuum line used to be attached. Hopefully if I overfill the gas tank, it drips to the Evap canister and evaporates.
On the breather line from the gas tank to the Evap canister: the valve is removed / by-passed, so the line is straight and open.
On the vacuum line from the Evap canister to the intake manifold: cut in the middle, jam a slug on the opening closest to the intake manifold (I put yellow clamp and zip-tied to make sure the slug stays in place), on the side to the Evap canister is removed.
Evap canister stays in place and has an open end on the side where the vacuum line used to be attached. Hopefully if I overfill the gas tank, it drips to the Evap canister and evaporates.
Attachments
Pier Luigi
Just got it firing!
Question: can I disconnect the breather valve from the sensor without causing a CEL?I took some pictures while working on disabling the evap can yesterday. Hopefully this will help someone out there... :
Illustrated Procedure:
- remove seatView attachment 13677
- remove left side panel (three bolts)
- remove starter cover (two bolts)
- locate vacuum tap line from manifold to canister under the gearbox
- cut vacuum line and block it (I glued an aluminum slug in place)
Follow the line and cut it in a convenient place, then block it ... particularly the upstream side that comes from the inlet manifold.
View attachment 13678
- locate breather line with valve connected to canister
- cut breather line above the valve and below at the canister inlet
View attachment 13679
View attachment 13680
- leave the breather line open ended behind the starter ... put a filter on it if you worry about environmental dust getting into the tank (but it ain't going to happen...Hope that's clear ... ask if you have any questions.
- replace starter cover
- replace side cover
- replace seat
I don't understand the question. There is no sensor in this system, and I'm not sure what a "CEL" is. ??
Pier Luigi
Just got it firing!
When I checked my EVAP lines on my 2018 V7 III, I noticed that the breather valve si connect to an electric wire that I assume is a sensor. Will the disconnection of the valve cause a Check Engine Light (CEL)?
Post a photo of this. Never seen this on even one, on any model, all the way up to 2019s.
Pier Luigi
Just got it firing!
Ok I just double checked and you’re right! My bad. The wire I saw is the lambda probe connected to the opposite side. I really appreciate your interest anyhow. I love this forum already and my Guzzi. Thank you again for the support
Pier Luigi
Just got it firing!
Just removed the evap line. Below some pictures. I removed the breather valve, replaced it with a fitter 1/4 to 3/16 and left the tank line plugged into the canister so the carbon compound will absorb fumes odor. Then I unplugged the intake line from both sides: canister and manifold intake and plugged the hose on both sides with 2 small caps so the hose remains in place but completely disconnected. Ultimately, installed a vacuum cap on the intake manifold with a clamp. A 1/4 vacuum cap works just fine but I preferred a 3/16 so it goes more snug.
