V7 III Evap/Tip removal

[Wisconsin v7 Racer]

When faced with a swooshing tank, is it a good idea to open the cap to vent, periodically? Or, would that introduce too much moisture into the tank?

I had the swoosh problem. Until I fixed it I always made sure to relieve the pressure often. Can wreck tank and lead to running problems when it builds up.

 

[blakestree]

Thanks for the advice, fellas!

 

[Tequilasunriser]

So where exactly is this tip valve located? Is it part of the removed evap system?

 

[kiwi dave]

So where exactly is this tip valve located? Is it part of the removed evap system?

Third pix in the first post.

 

[Tequilasunriser]

Tip valve = tank breather valve?

Thanks.

 

[SaulGuzzi]

has anyone removed the components of EVAP system completely?

 

[Richard Ducati]

Tip valve = tank breather valve?

Thanks.

Yes.

has anyone removed the components of EVAP system completely?

All the bits are gone on my 2014 V7 Special. I ran a new vent hose down from the tank and plugged the manifold take-off with a vacuum cap (clamped for security). Everything else in between was removed.

 

[Mayakovski]

has anyone removed the components of EVAP system completely?

Planning to do so in the next week or two after the first full service (this Saturday).

I will do Todd's ECU update, remove the EVAP system and do the SAS removal. Got all the parts, just want the first dealer service done first. Then time for some real fun.

I just gotta say, I am lovin the heck of of my Silky (2017 Anniversario).

 

[SaulGuzzi]

Planning to do so in the next week or two after the first full service (this Saturday).

I will do Todd's ECU update, remove the EVAP system and do the SAS removal. Got all the parts, just want the first dealer service done first. Then time for some real fun.

I just gotta say, I am lovin the heck of of my Silky (2017 Anniversario).

Do you think you could take some good step by step pictures? It would be extremely useful

 

[Mayakovski]

Do you think you could take some good step by step pictures? It would be extremely useful

I'll see what I can do. I usually start a project, take a couple of pictures and then get so into the project I forget to take any more pictures. But will do my best.

 

[Tequilasunriser]

For those who are a bit more visually minded here is a CAD image from the service manual showing where to cut and block the hoses.

To block the vacuum hose I used a $0.68 dowel rod from ACE hardware and a couple of small hose clamps. It's similar to Godfrey's method but using hose clamps rather than glue to secure the plug/dowel.

Thanks for your guides, Godfrey.

 

[SaulGuzzi]

For those who are a bit more visually minded here is a CAD image from the service manual showing where to cut and block the hoses.

To block the vacuum hose I used a $0.68 dowel rod from ACE hardware and a couple of small hose clamps. It's similar to Godfrey's method but using hose clamps rather than glue to secure the plug/dowel.

Thanks for your guides, Godfrey.

View attachment 15283

Dude thanks tequila sunriser!
So let me get this straight..
1. Cut #5 and plug with a slug on both ends
2. Cut both sides of #3 and let them hang

Second question is about the functions and just want confirmation I have this correct
1. #3 comes from the gas tank and goes into the carbon filter (cylinder at the bottom of the image)
2. #5 goes into throttle bodies to be burned off

If my process understanding is correct all I have to learn is SAS removal!

 

[Tequilasunriser]

Dude thanks tequila sunriser!
So let me get this straight..
1. Cut #5 and plug with a slug on both ends
2. Cut both sides of #3 and let them hang

Second question is about the functions and just want confirmation I have this correct
1. #3 comes from the gas tank and goes into the carbon filter (cylinder at the bottom of the image)
2. #5 goes into throttle bodies to be burned off

If my process understanding is correct all I have to learn is SAS removal!

1.1 Yes, alternatively you can just remove the hose from the evap can and plug it then cut the hose above the filter. (that's what Todd recommended.) Ultimately they achieve the same result. A 3rd method would be to remove the hose labeled 5 from the throttle body and cover the port with a vacuum cap, and to cut the line labeled 4 above the breather valve (#3). You could then remove the evap can entirely.

1.2 Yeah, you could let them hang, but I secured them with some zip ties to keep them in place. The ends are completely open though.

2.1 Correct.

2.2 Correct, burned off/recycled

 

[SaulGuzzi]

So i just competed it.
Snip the round ufo thing off, cut the tube from the y connector thing, and plugged it with a metal cylinder thingy-ma-bob, then removed the can.

So instead of plugging this with the tube, i can just use these plugs and reinforcing rings at the tip valve right?

 

[Mayakovski]

Thanks for the great tutorial, Godfrey. I followed it and did the canister-ectomy today. And, as you might expect, two of the poor quality spring nut broke - one on the side cover and one on the starter cover. Can you point me toward a source for the "better quality" replacements you got? Are they M4? Thanks!

I just had this happen to me as I removed the EVAP system and I got replacements from my local dealer.
Yamaha, part # 90183-050A6.
They fit perfect and are nice and strong.

 

[Mayakovski]

Two of the three clips that hold the left side cover screws snapped in half while I was doing this. Where do you source clips that aren't as fragile as the brittle factory clips?

I just had this happen to me as I removed the EVAP system and I got replacements from my local dealer.
Yamaha, part # 90183-050A6.
They fit perfect and are nice and strong.

 

[GuzziTex]

Thanks!

 

[Bruce Wharton]

I just had this happen to me as I removed the EVAP system and I got replacements from my local dealer.
Yamaha, part # 90183-050A6.
They fit perfect and are nice and strong.

Many thanks!

 

[Larry Vance]

Todd's been stressing I should can the evap system and its 'vacuum leak' since I started talking to him about the ECU reflash for Racer. Well, this morning, my second test of the ECU map with a stone-cold start on a chilly morning proved conclusively that Todd's work on that is absolutely spot on: Start, fifteen seconds to get a little heat into the cylinders, ride away ... no stumbles, no lean spot, nada. Just perfect. Thanks Todd!

But, as I returned home a couple of hours later, I noticed that the idle revs were acting a little "funny" and that the throttle seemed a hair "sticky." No idea why, but killing the motor and restarting cured both symptoms. Two miles later as I pulled into my driveway, the sticky throttle sensation was back again.

On a hunch, I opened the tank and heard a gasp of air, there was a vacuum building up in the tank. Ah hah! the evap can and it's valve were screwing up as I was told.

I spent a bit of time with the V7III ABS Service Station Manual PDF and finally found the evap system on page 234-237 as "Sistema evaporativo canister". Now I could see where they were located approximately and understand the operation completely. Vacuum line connects to the evap can to draw fumes through the tank breather after passing them through the charcoal. The valve is supposed to limit how much vacuum is applied and vent when it's too much. Obviously, it wasn't working right. A cheap and crappy valve, essentially, is the cause of the problem. But the system is ugly anyway and almost totally unnecessary for the evaporative emissions of a motorcycle.

Not having much time, I pulled the seat, side cover, and starter cover. Yup, there are the lines from the intake manifold to the canister under the gearbox, there's the tank line with the valve in it. Looking at the flow from manifold to canister, it was obvious how to do the quick'n'dirty: I cut the line going to the manifold and stuffed a blanking plug into it to stop the vacuum leak. I then cut the line coming from the tank vent and going into the canister just above the valve gizmo, and cut the bottom line and the valve off the canister. No more vacuum leak, and the tank now vents to atmosphere exactly the same way my LeMan V tank did ... just a small line leading from the top of the tank down behind the starter.

Procedure:

- remove seat
- remove left side panel (three bolts)
- remove starter cover (two bolts)
- locate vacuum tap line from manifold to canister under the gearbox
- locate breather line with valve connected to canister
- cut vacuum line and block it (I glued an aluminum slug in place)
- cut breather line above the valve and below at the canister inlet
- leave the breather line open ended behind the started ... put a filter on it if you worry about environmental dust getting into the tank
- replace starter cover
- replace side cover
- replace seat​

You're done.

note: Another one of those cheap clip nuts broke when I removed the side cover. Glad I got six better quality spares! That's three now... I'm going to pick up another dozen because I see them all over the place on this bike.

I'll clean up my work next time I get a chance by removing the vacuum line and canister completely and using a good vacuum tap plug, maybe extend the breather line down an inch or two and put a little filter trap on it. But this will suffice for the present.

I'll see what its behavior is on my run out for dinner tonight.

BTW: Is this little valve on the breather line what's referred to as the "tip valve"? Or is that something else still? ... Thanks!

G

Richard for the above info. I have a 2013 V7 and am still confused as to which line is which. Attached is a photo of the canister, which line is which and can I simply remove these fron the canister and block them off. Anything else to do. Thansks in advance.

 

[V700Steve]

For those who are a bit more visually minded here is a CAD image from the service manual showing where to cut and block the hoses.

To block the vacuum hose I used a $0.68 dowel rod from ACE hardware and a couple of small hose clamps. It's similar to Godfrey's method but using hose clamps rather than glue to secure the plug/dowel.

Thanks for your guides, Godfrey.

View attachment 15283

This explains it all. Cut it free block or delete small hose. View attachment.